Monday, July 31, 2023

Walking in the Footsteps of Jesus - 2/7/2023 - 2/8/2023

I have lost count of how many installments I have written so far; but this is the next to the last. I am saving the final day (2/9/23) for last and to be by itself. There are so many photos that I want to include, and I don't want to deter from the spectacular two days that are described below. I hope you enjoy this one and I look forward to wrapping this up soon. 

February 7, 2023

In torrential rain, we visited the town of Ein Kerem, a neighborhood in west Jerusalem. This was the home of Elizabeth and Zeccariah, parents of John the Baptist as well as the place of his birth. It was also where Mary visited her cousin, Elizabeth, after she was told by the angel Gabriel that her cousin would soon give birth to a son. 

Icon depicting Mary & Elizabeth
(a gift to us from our group)

A wood carving of the visitation
(also a gift to us from our group)



We walked up a million stone steps (at least it felt like a million) to the Church of the Visitation and were able to have Mass at the Upper Basilica. In the rain - a whole lot of rain. We didn't take many pictures here because it is difficult to hold your phone/camera and hold an umbrella and watch where you are going (I know, sometimes it is hard to walk & chew gum at the same time). The photo below illustrates how it looks in nice weather!


A couple of pilgrims were driven up the million stairs to the Church of the Visitation; however, they still had to navigate a bunch of stone steps to the upper basilica for Mass in the pouring rain (how many times have I said that in this journal?). Whether you rode up the steep steps or walked I think we all felt it was well worth the wet and cold to experience the joy and graces we all received in the upper basilica.

This shows how much rain we saw in Ein Kerem 
Photo Credit: Theresa Barnaby

These churches were designed by the famous architect of the Holy Land, Antonio Barluzzi. The upper basilica contained large frescos on the walls. One of the frescos depicted the architect, Antonio Barluzzi among a host of saints. It was cool to see this man with a bowtie hanging out with the saints in their period clothes and Our Blessed Mother.

Can you find Barluzzi?

The Mass was magical and so powerful, at least for me. Father Michael & Deacon Ken were on the altar, it was esthetically and spiritually beautiful. Father wore a gorgeous blue dalmatic (photo below). There was another group waiting to use the upper basilica for a daily mass of their own, so there was no time to dawdle. The others who waited were extremely kind and considerate of our Mass - I think they were grateful to be in our of the rain. 

We sang Immaculate Mary and Gentle Woman during our daily Mass and heard Deacon Ken read the gospel from Luke 1:39-56.

Mass in Ein Kerem

In the evening we had wine & cheese, courtesy of Catholic Travel Centre, at Notre Dame Jerusalem. Magical. And it rained and rained – a lot – all day long. I think most of us were soaked clear through but no one complained and we all had smiles on our faces and in our hearts all day long.

February 8, 2023

Our last full day in Jerusalem began with a short drive to the Old City in our tour bus. The first hill we had to traverse was indicative of the “uphill” that we had most of the day (or so it seemed). We entered through Lion’s Gate (aka Stephen’s Gate – where St. Stephen was martyred). We visited St. Anne Church just inside the Lion’s Gate and the cave where Mary was born. This compound also included the pools of Bethesada where Jesus healed the paralytic who could not get to the water.

Lion's Gate

Entrance to Basilica of St. Anne and the pools of Bethesda

Inside Bethesda

Inside Bethesda

Basilica of St. Anne

We walked the Via Dolorosa (the Way of Sorrow, aka Stations of the Cross) through the narrow streets of the Old City (see map below).

Red line shows our travels - beginning at Lions Gate and ending at Dung Gate

At the first (or second) station, a Jewish American had, within the past few days, savagely attacked the statue of Jesus (see 4th photo below). He threw it to the ground and was going to set fire to chapel and was stopped by the military before he could cause any further destruction. It was a heartbreaking sight for us all. The hatred shown to our Lord was one of the saddest parts of our journey.

Map of the Old City

Courtyard where we began

Beginning of our Via Dolorosa


The statue of Jesus desecrated just days before

It would be very easy to get lost

The walk was difficult – uphill, narrow alleyways paved with stone. We stopped at every station and Father Michael would read from the way that he chose. We ended up at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and had Mass at the Blessed Sacrament Chapel which is very close to Jesus’ tomb. 

The maps below are useful to understand where we were and what we were seeing. This actually two maps of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We entered through the south portal (red arrow on right side) and had Mass in the Latin Sacristy (red circle on left map - top). The area marked in red circle on the left map (lower in the map) is the Place of the Holy Women. Hussam placed us in the location where our Blessed Mother Mary stood and watched her son die on the cross—one of the most powerful parts of the day. It was a sobering scene and as a mother & a Christian, I cried. 

The area marked as Greek Choir and north were all under construction so we could not see some of this. 


Calvary Hill, the place where Jesus’ body was anointed, and His tomb were a tangible reminder of what He did for us all. When Jesus was crucified, Calvary was outside of the city walls, today it is inside the walls.

The south portal entrance and the ladder
Photo credit: Theresa Barnaby

Steps leading to Calvary Hill
Photo credit: Theresa Barnaby

Christ was nailed to the cross here

Christ was crucified here; under the altar is part of the wooden cross

Where Jesus was laid and was prepared for burial

The stone where Jesus was laid and was prepared for burial (the anointing stone)


We waited in line for over an hour to see and touch the place where Jesus’ body was laid.  It was breathtaking, emotional, and joyful all at the same time. 

This particular commemoration of our Lord’s Passion and Death was unlike anything I’ve ever participated in. We were in actually in the location where Jesus walked, fell, was crucified, and died. We were not just thinking about it but feeling it every step of the way. Seeing what Mary saw as her son died on the cross. Touching the stone where his dead body was laid. Experiencing the emotions that his Mother must have felt. It was an amazing, life changing experience that I would not trade for all the money in the world.

I believe we exited through the Chapel of St. Helena; however, I was feeling pretty emotional by then and I don't recall exactly where Hussam took us. But I do remember he took us to a Jerusalem gift shop that served us delicious Falafels from a nearby sandwich shop. This is also the place where I purchased Ken’s red Jerusalem cross stole.

We then walked to the Western Wall [retaining wall of the temple the location of Jesus’ presentation, where he ran away to (his father’s house), and where he yelled at the moneychangers and made them leave]. It is said that prayers are more powerful at the Wall. I left a piece of paper there in one of the crevices and said a prayer. BTW, men and women pray separately at the Wall (men on the left and women on the right).

The Wailing Wall - Jerusalem

Until next time, may God bless you abundantly and give you all you need.

Saturday, July 22, 2023

Walking in the Footsteps of Jesus - 2/6/2023

My apologies for the wait between the last installment and this, while not the final installment of our amazing trip to the Holy Land, does continue with the next day of our journey (February 6th). I will continue to work on the 7th, 8th, and 9th (our last day) but I have so much to say and so many photos to insert that I just wanted to get this next day published before everyone lost interest. 

 February 6, 2023

From the hotel, we boarded our bus and Essam drove us to the Mount of Olives (breathtaking views). 

Our route on the Mt. of Olives
(red line - walk to sites; blue line - walk to bus)

We visited the Pater Noster Shrine were the “Our Father” is written in over 100 languages. Hussam recited the “Our Father” in Aramaic (or was it Hebrew?) and Bernie and Janet said it in Mandarin. We prayed the “Our Father” in English together. This is the place Jesus taught his disciples (and us) how to pray. 

Pater Noster Shrine
Photo credit: Theresa Barnaby

We walked down off the Mount of Olives towards the Kidron Valley. Very steep hill, very hard on these old knees and hips. Ken cut his hand in 2 places on the handrail, but it was so cold that he didn’t even know he was bleeding. Eventually we got the bleeding stopped and found bandages (a big thank-you to our nurse, Betty Johnson & our guide, Hussam for their aid).

We visited the Chapel of the Dominus Flevit. Luke 19:41-44 records that Jesus looked over the city of Jerusalem and wept for its future destruction. The chapel, designed by Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi, was built in 1955. During construction, archaeological remains from the Canaanite period, and a lovely Byzantine chapel were discovered, along with tombs from the Second Temple and Late Roman periods.

Chapel of the Dominus Flevit

Jewish Cemetary near the Chapel
(see map for exact location)
Photo credit: Theresa Barnaby

We walked further down the hill to the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus was betrayed by Judas. Such a beautiful place but filled with so much sorrow and sadness. It was odd to see the place that I had only read about in the Gospels. Heartbreaking betrayal and Jesus knowing he was to die (for us). Tears flowed freely from me (and many others) as the realization of how much our Lord loved us then and continues to love us still. A monumental epiphany for me.
Jerusalem thorn bush - used to make the crown of thorns
Photo credit: Theresa Barnaby

We had our Mass in the Grotto of the Apostles near the Garden. It was easy to see Jesus teaching and preaching and praying here. The artwork behind the altar came to life for me especially during the Eucharistic Prayer. Jesus’ red robe grew in intensity as Father Michael progressed in this prayer - I know how crazy that may sound to some - but it was a powerfully charged Mass for me. It was spiritually enlightening (Jesus is always there at Mass even when it is not manifested in a visual way) and quite literally brought the Mass to life for me.

Mass at the Grotto of the Apostles

The Church of All Nations was extremely busy but it was such a treat. As the name suggests, many nations of the world came together to build this magnificent church at this site. This is also another Antonio Barluzzi designed church.

After Mass, we walked down and then up an extremely steep hill to get to our bus – crossing a very busy street to get there (blue line on map at beginning of today above). Ken had a very difficult time getting to the bus and his O2 saturation was in the 80’s for several hours (he remained on the bus for the remainder of the afternoon). To get a taste of how he feels when exerting so much energy with very little lung capacity - try breathing through a small straw and walk up a hill (no fair breathing through your nose).


Notre Dame Jerusalem Lobby

We had lunch at the beautiful Vatican owned Notre Dame Jerusalem center (above)  – across the street from the Lion’s gate to the old city. Father bought a bottle of wine to share with our table and we had an exceptional lunch surrounded by our group and others of our faith from around the world.

Following lunch, we drove to the location of the Upper Room on Mt. Zion. We prayed a Hail Mary at the site (currently under renovation) commemorating the assumption of Mary into heaven. 

The Upper Room
The Upper Room

The Upper Room

The Upper Room

Our last stop of the day was the site where Jesus told Peter he would deny him three times and the dungeon where Jesus spent his last night on earth. I did not go down to the dungeon as it was simply too emotional for me and too small of a space for me to be comfortable. Jesus was literally lowered into the dungeon - below ground - by ropes tied around his torso as there was no door, just a hole in the ceiling. He was treated badly, and He suffered so much for the salvation of our souls, it makes me wonder how could He love us all so much?


Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu


Front door of the Church


View from the church yard


Outside


Chapel inside

Servant of God

Ruins outside the church


So look foward to the next 3 days (may even be 3 more blog postings). Thank you for reading - until next time.


Tuesday, June 6, 2023

Walking in the Footsteps of Jesus - 2/3/2023 - 2/5/2023

Our adventure continues as we travel to other locations around the northern/northeastern part of Israel. Words or photos cannot do justice to the country, the history, or remotely explain the feeling of walking where our Lord walked on this earth. The Holy Bible came to life for me and I feel closer to Jesus now more than I've ever felt in my life. 

February 3, 2023

We didn’t have to drive far for our Mass this morning as it was on the grounds of the Mt of Beatitudes Guest House. This outdoor chapel included an amazing view (at least for Fr. Michael and Deacon Ken during Mass) of the Sea of Galilee.

View from the altar


Mass at Mt. of Beatitudes


View of the Sea of Galilee from the church

The church at Mt of Beatitudes was created by Antonio Barluzzi (prolific architect of some of the most beautiful churches in Israel during the 1950's). The Beatitudes are in Latin around the inside of the dome (photo below). The alabaster and onyx altar occupies the center under the dome (photo below).

Front of the Church
Beatitudes in Latin around the dome
The marble line walls
The alabaster and onyx altar

We then drove to the Banias National Park at Caesarea Philippi (northern end of the Golan Heights) to see where statues for pagan gods were once displayed.


Banias National Park at Caesarea Philippi

Father Michael

We heard scripture from Fr. Michael and then drove over the Golan Heights which was the site of the 6-day war in 1967 among other battles throughout the ages. We drove from near the northern border of the Israeli occupied Golan Heights down about ¾ of the way to the south. There are fences with signs still warning of the possibility of land mines. It was green and lush now with nary a sign of the war that once raged there. There is also a UN Disengagement Observer Force maintaining a 103 sq mile buffer zone in between Syria and Israel. We listened to a recording at a historical marker near the buffer zone, in the valley of the Tears (near Kuneitra the deserted city). The Yom Kippur War was fought here as well in 1973.

The UN Disengagement Observer Force compound

We went from 200 ft below sea level to over 3,300 ft above! Some of the roads were barely wide enough for two vehicles – but thankfully we had the best bus driver in all of Israel. He always got us there and back safely. Essam, you are a rock star!

We drove to Valley of the Doves near Magdala where the Jews from Magdala hid from the Romans in the caves of Mt. Arbel during the revolt of the Jews in AD 67. The Romans came down to the caves from the top of the mountain and slayed all of the Jews.

Caves where Jews hid AD 67

Map of the area

Jesus also travelled this route on his way to Capernaum. We spent our last night at Mt. Beatitudes Guest House.

February 4, 2023

We boarded the bus and left the Mt of Beatitudes Guest House in a drizzling rain early this morning so we could drive to Mt. Tabor for a 10:00 am Mass at the Basilica of the Transfiguration. The excitement amount the pilgrims was obvious but when we arrived at the base of the mountain and could see that the top was covered with a thick layer of fog, honestly, we were a bit disappointed. While this was not ideal for observing the spectacular views from the top of Tabor, we were not deterred. We loaded into several smaller vans and were driven (by seasoned veterans of this road) up the mountainside via windy roads with hairpin turns to the very top.  We can only imagine the breathtaking views from there—perhaps on the next trip. However, what we were able to see was nonetheless breathtaking.


This is where Peter, James and John accompanied Jesus. They witnessed Elijah and Moses appearing to them and then Jesus transfiguring before their eyes. The frescos in this church are truly an experience that only be gotten by visiting Mt. Tabor. God said “..listen to him…”

The Basilica of the Transfiguration

Moses Chapel

The Basilica of the Transfiguration (another Antonio Barluzzi creation) contains two chapels—one for Elijah and one for Moses – as well as the main sanctuary which is where we had Mass. The Basilica has amazing acoustics and singing there was a delight. Fr. Michael intoned Angus Dei chant and we all joined in—it was such a beautiful moment and a beautiful Mass.

Deacon Ken (dh) and Father Michael during Mass

The Jordan River was the next stop on our way to Jerusalem – where we renewed our baptismal promises. It was so surreal to realize that Jesus had been baptized in these very waters (“if not here, then near”).



The Jordan River

Then on to the Dead Sea, elevation 1,365 feet below sea level and the most salty sea in the world. That is why nothing grows in or in the immediate area of the Dead Sea. The weather was sunny and rain-free so many enjoyed the benefits of floating in the Dead Sea or wiping the mineral rich sludge from the bottom of the sea on their bodies. Ken & I did not partake in any of these “beneficial” activities; although we did walk a bit, which felt amazing, and soaked up the sun. The Dead Sea is extremely commercialized, but it is a significant site and I am glad we stopped.

From our vantage point

Camel at the Dead Sea
(photo credit Theresa Barnaby)

The Dead Sea
(photo credit Theresa Barnaby)
The Dead Sea
(photo credit Theresa Barnaby)

On to Jerusalem. The initial view of this historically and spiritually significant city was one of wonder and awe. The old buildings, the valley, everything looked so familiar, yet I had never been to Jerusalem, ever. Unfortunately, our hotel (Dan Jerusalem) had no power. CTC came through in record time and we spent our first night in Jerusalem at the Dan Panorama Jerusalem hotel. It was clean, warm, and served great food – so who’s to complain.

City lights - Jerusalem
(photo credit Theresa Barnaby [because our view was of a back alley])


February 5, 2023

The bulk of this day was spent in Palestine-held Bethlehem (literally means House of Bread). We visited an olive wood carving business—lovely pieces of art. Essam drove us to the Shephard's Field (at Beit Sahour) and Fr. Michael and Deacon Ken celebrated Mass for us at a grotto. We also visited the church there. Antonio Barluzzi (this name should be becoming familiar by now) was the architect for the Shepards Fields church which is in the shape of shepherd’s tent. Inside are angels, light from the dome, frescos of the Nativity and the shepherds.

Olive wood carving business

Some hand carved, others machine carved, and still others using both methods

Mass at a grotto at Shepherd's Field

Shepherd's Field Church
Inside of Shepherd's Field Church

Inside of Shepherd's Field Church

Inside of Shepherd's Field ChurchI


After lunch at Casa Nova restaurant in Bethlehem, we walked next door to Manager Square and entered the Church of the Nativity (via the Humility door) which was built approximately 1,400 years ago by St. Helena, Mother of Constantine. The Humility door was initially installed at this height so people on horseback could not attack the church by riding horses through the door. One can also look at it as a symbol of how Jesus humiliated himself by being born man.

Humility Door (from inside the church)

Humility door (from outside the church)

Waiting in line for quite some time - absolutely worth the wait to see where Jesus was born (photos were taken individually—thank you Bernie) under the current church (the Nativity grotto). Such a powerful holy site.

Waiting in line to see the Manager where Jesus was born
The place where Jesus was born - Ken

And me


The Church includes 11th century mosaics recently uncovered on the walls. The church is held by the Greek Orthodox (main), the Armenians, and the Jesuits. The Greek Orthodox section contains “iconostasis” that holds many icons depicting many iterations of the Holy Family.

Greek Orthodox side of church

Mosaics recently discovered

Mosaics recently discovered

The Jesuits portion of this church is the St. Katherine of Alexandar church.



St. Jerome lived here during his life while he was translating the Bible. It also serves as the Bethlehem Catholic parish church. It is beautifully peaceful and serene.

Our hotel for the remainder of our trip was the Dan Jerusalem. A very large, aging hotel with amazing staff and food! Ken & I had an amazing room on the 7th floor with a beautiful view of the city plus some wine (which we shared on the last night) and fruit basket. 

View from our 7th floor room at the Dan Jerusalem

Main lobby area of Dan Jerusalem

I hope you are enjoying the journey so far. The next installment will be done sometime in the future (as time permits). I do have some photos to add here but will publish this without them for the time being. Photo credits are given when I made note of who took the photo. We all happily shared our photos so if you see one that you took and I did not give you credit for it, my humblest apologies. Until next time - may God bless you with all you need.

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