Our adventure continues as we travel to other locations around the northern/northeastern part of Israel. Words or photos cannot do justice to the country, the history, or remotely explain the feeling of walking where our Lord walked on this earth. The Holy Bible came to life for me and I feel closer to Jesus now more than I've ever felt in my life.
February 3, 2023
We didn’t have to drive far for our Mass this morning as it was on the grounds of the Mt of Beatitudes Guest House. This outdoor chapel included an amazing view (at least for Fr. Michael and Deacon Ken during Mass) of the Sea of Galilee.
The church at Mt of Beatitudes was created by Antonio Barluzzi (prolific architect of some of the most beautiful churches in Israel during the 1950's).
The Beatitudes are in Latin around the inside of the dome (photo below). The alabaster and
onyx altar occupies the center under the dome (photo below).
We then drove to the Banias National Park at Caesarea Philippi (northern end of the Golan Heights) to see where statues for pagan gods were once displayed.
We heard scripture from Fr. Michael and then drove over the Golan Heights which was the site of the 6-day war in 1967 among other battles throughout the ages. We drove from near the northern border of the Israeli occupied Golan Heights down about ¾ of the way to the south. There are fences with signs still warning of the possibility of land mines. It was green and lush now with nary a sign of the war that once raged there. There is also a UN Disengagement Observer Force maintaining a 103 sq mile buffer zone in between Syria and Israel. We listened to a recording at a historical marker near the buffer zone, in the valley of the Tears (near Kuneitra the deserted city). The Yom Kippur War was fought here as well in 1973.
We went from 200 ft below sea level to over 3,300 ft above! Some of the roads were barely wide enough for two vehicles – but thankfully we had the best bus driver in all of Israel. He always got us there and back safely. Essam, you are a rock star!
We drove to Valley of the Doves near Magdala where the Jews
from Magdala hid from the Romans in the caves of Mt. Arbel during the revolt of
the Jews in AD 67. The Romans came down to the caves from the top of the
mountain and slayed all of the Jews.
Jesus also travelled this route on his way to Capernaum. We spent our last night at Mt. Beatitudes Guest House.
February 4, 2023
We boarded the bus and left the Mt of Beatitudes Guest House in a drizzling rain early this morning so we could drive to Mt. Tabor for a 10:00 am Mass at the Basilica of the Transfiguration. The excitement amount the pilgrims was obvious but when we arrived at the base of the mountain and could see that the top was covered with a thick layer of fog, honestly, we were a bit disappointed. While this was not ideal for observing the spectacular views from the top of Tabor, we were not deterred. We loaded into several smaller vans and were driven (by seasoned veterans of this road) up the mountainside via windy roads with hairpin turns to the very top. We can only imagine the breathtaking views from there—perhaps on the next trip. However, what we were able to see was nonetheless breathtaking.
This is where Peter, James and John accompanied Jesus. They
witnessed Elijah and Moses appearing to them and then Jesus transfiguring
before their eyes. The frescos in this church are truly an experience that only
be gotten by visiting Mt. Tabor. God said “..listen to him…”
The Basilica of the Transfiguration (another Antonio Barluzzi creation) contains two chapels—one for Elijah and one for Moses – as
well as the main sanctuary which is where we had Mass. The Basilica has amazing
acoustics and singing there was a delight. Fr. Michael intoned Angus Dei chant
and we all joined in—it was such a beautiful moment and a beautiful Mass.
The Jordan River was the next stop on our way to Jerusalem –
where we renewed our baptismal promises. It was so surreal to realize that
Jesus had been baptized in these very waters (“if not here, then near”).
Then on to the Dead Sea, elevation 1,365 feet below sea
level and the most salty sea in the world. That is why nothing grows in or in
the immediate area of the Dead Sea. The weather was sunny and rain-free so many
enjoyed the benefits of floating in the Dead Sea or wiping the mineral rich
sludge from the bottom of the sea on their bodies. Ken & I did not partake in any
of these “beneficial” activities; although we did walk a bit, which felt
amazing, and soaked up the sun. The Dead Sea is extremely commercialized, but it is a significant site
and I am glad we stopped.
On to Jerusalem. The initial view of this historically and spiritually significant city was one of wonder and awe. The old buildings, the valley, everything looked so familiar, yet I had never been to Jerusalem, ever. Unfortunately, our hotel (Dan Jerusalem) had no power. CTC came through in record time and we spent our first night in Jerusalem at the Dan Panorama Jerusalem hotel. It was clean, warm, and served great food – so who’s to complain.
February 5, 2023
The bulk of this day was spent in Palestine-held Bethlehem
(literally means House of Bread). We visited an olive wood carving
business—lovely pieces of art. Essam drove us to the Shephard's Field (at Beit
Sahour) and Fr. Michael and Deacon Ken celebrated Mass for us at a grotto. We
also visited the church there. Antonio Barluzzi (this name should be becoming familiar by now) was the architect for the
Shepards Fields church which is in the shape of shepherd’s tent. Inside are angels, light
from the dome, frescos of the Nativity and the shepherds.
After lunch at Casa Nova restaurant in Bethlehem, we walked next door to Manager Square and entered the Church of the Nativity (via the Humility door) which was built approximately 1,400 years ago by St. Helena, Mother of Constantine. The Humility door was initially installed at this height so people on horseback could not attack the church by riding horses through the door. One can also look at it as a symbol of how Jesus humiliated himself by being born man.
The Jesuits portion of this church is the St. Katherine of
Alexandar church.
Our hotel for the remainder of our trip was the Dan
Jerusalem. A very large, aging hotel with amazing staff and food! Ken & I
had an amazing room on the 7th floor with a beautiful view of the
city plus some wine (which we shared on the last night) and fruit basket.
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